Insights

What are the essential factors required for creating a high-quality watch? They may be grouped into indirect factors, those that contribute to the creation of the watch but ultimately do not form a physical part of the timepiece, and direct factors which do ultimately form one or more of the physical parts.

Indirect and human factors

The people behind the watch

Human factors integrity, passion towards high standards of workmanship. Even for independent watchmakers, their circle of family, friends, and contacts all make an important contribution to the finished article. The watchmaker’s reputation and personal connections.

Technical Heritage

Bridges, the mainspring, balance spring, escapement, pivots, complications, and finishing techniques all have a long history of refinement.

Standards

Mechanical Engineering standards, tolerances, hardness, surface finish, torque for screws, chronometer standards, precision, and reliability all play a critical role in the creation of a high-quality timepiece.

Workspace

Having the right workspace, with the right lighting, is a critical part of successful watchmaking. Increasingly we can get a glimpse of, or some insight into, the watchmakers’ workspace. That can be fascinating and helps to confirm and reinforce the authenticity of a watch.

Tools and machinery

An extensive range of tooling is required and often tools must be manufactured in-house for specific operations or processes. While researching Kari Voutilainen the significance of Haas machine tools started to come into focus. Perhaps the video below sheds some light on this topic. The video is about the Haas F1 racing team but it helps us to understand the benefits of cooperation between large companies and smaller companies:

The Assembly process

A delicate process requiring substantial skill, knowledge, and a very steady hand. With more complex timepieces this process may be divided into multiple steps to create individual sub-assemblies that are eventually combined to form the finished piece.

Attention to detail

Without sufficient attention to detail any of the other elements of a high quality watch can be undermined so it continues to be one of the most important aspects of watchmaking.

Inspection, Testing and Adjustment

Every step of successful watchmaking deserves appropriate inspection to ensure that components are meeting the required specifications. This applies to both physical properties and appearance. After assembly of the timepiece testing and adjustment are essential activities to ensure that the watch performs as intended and will continue to do so under the range of environmental conditions the watch is likely to encounter while in use.

Time

Every successful piece of art or engineering requires time to perfect, but an equally important measure is efficiency. The design and manufacture of specialized tools and techniques allow watchmakers to improve the efficiency with which they can create component parts and apply finishes. These improvements allow timepieces to be completed within a practical amount of time and for a reasonable price.

Warranty

The length and terms of the warranty can be a good indication of the level of confidence a watchmaker has in the timepiece.

Repair services

Convenient access to maintenance and repair facilities can be an important consideration when investing in a unique timepiece, but many are based on standard component sizes and assembled using established methods so this approach significantly increases the options available when maintenance is required.

Direct and tangible factors

The Design

A watch need not be a world exclusive or have all of the available complications to qualify as a high-quality watch. A handmade timepiece crafted by an individual watchmaker over several months that is expected to last for decades surely meets the criteria. The aesthetics are critical, with proportions, symmetry, and balance being important factors. Consider the success of Breguet and his improvements to the face and hands of watches.

Features and Complications

Seconds, day, date, month, moon phase, year, chronograph, dual time zone, perpetual calendar, chimes.

The Materials

Gold, Silver, Stainless steel, Titanium, Ceramics, Silicon, Artificial sapphire jewels. Sapphire cover glass. Superluminova luminous dial detail and hands. Alligator Leather.

Components

Even for the most exclusive watches, a number of components may be bought in including mainspring, balance springs, screws, balances, jewels, palettes, cover glass, crystal, and escape wheels, straps. This has several advantages including economies of scale, quality control access to premium materials, repair part availability. The movement may be based on a module from the same group or specially upgraded for performance or have elements custom finished.

Protection of the movement

Features to protect against shock, vibration, magnetism, temperature, and waterproofing, In short, features that enhance the reliability and accuracy of a watch under a variety of harsh environmental conditions.

Surface Treatments

Surface coatings using methods such as physical vapor deposition to improve hardness, reduce wear, and improve appearance. Coatings such as Diamond-like Carbon (DLC) improve hardness, reduce wear, reduce friction, and improve appearance. Electroplating to deposit a layer of higher performance material, nickel, silver, or gold. Anti-reflective coatings on glass and crystal.

Lubricants

The lubricants used are critical for the long-term accuracy and reliability of a watch. Properties such as viscosity, longevity, and temperature stability are important. Special chemical treatments and design features reduce the spread of lubricants over the surface of surrounding materials over time.

Finishing

If all other details of a watch are approaching perfection then it deserves and justifies the time and effort necessary for finishing to exceptional levels of quality and craftsmanship.

Packaging

The final packaging is an important finishing touch that serves to complement the appearance and to protect the timepiece from harm.